Sarlat: Beynac, Castelnaud & La Roque Gageac – The Dordogne Castle Valley

Beynac Castle rises from a vertical 150-metre limestone cliff above the Dordogne — a site so naturally defensive that it was described in the Middle Ages as 'the eagle's nest of Périgord'. The castle was built in the 12th century and became one of the four baronies of Périgord — the most powerful lordships in the region. Richard the Lionheart (Duke of Aquitaine and later King of England) seized it in 1189 and used it as a base for his campaigns against Phillip II of France; it was returned by treaty after Richard's death. During the Hundred Years War, Beynac was the French side's principal stronghold in Périgord Noir while Castelnaud, directly opposite, was held by the English. The guide tells the story of Eleanor of Aquitaine — Duchess of Aquitaine, Queen of France (to Louis VII), then Queen of England (to Henry II) — whose inheritance of this entire region set off 116 years of war between England and France.

La Roque Gageac is built directly into the golden limestone cliff face above the Dordogne — not in front of the cliff but into it, using the overhanging rock as a partial roof for the highest houses. In winter, the cliff stores the sun's heat and creates a microclimate warm enough for palm trees and Mediterranean plants. The village has been classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France) and offers the finest view in the Dordogne valley: looking west, Beynac is visible on its cliff to the right, and Castelnaud on its cliff to the left — the two rivals framing the village from opposite sides. Traditional flat-bottomed gabarres (river boats) depart from the village quay for views of all three from the water.

Castelnaud Castle faces Beynac directly across the Dordogne valley — the two castles are 2 kilometres apart and have an unobstructed view of each other from their respective clifftops. While Beynac was French throughout the Hundred Years War, Castelnaud was largely English-held, serving as the base for English and their Gascon allies in Périgord. The guide covers the extraordinary military logic of the Hundred Years War in this valley: how two forces controlling opposite cliffs and the same river crossing could hold each other in strategic paralysis for a century. Castelnaud now houses the Musée de la Guerre au Moyen Âge (Museum of Medieval Warfare) — one of the finest collections of medieval weapons, armour and siege equipment in France, including working reconstructions of trebuchets and mangonels deployed in the castle grounds.